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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.